The Zamindars of Bengal, had a life of wealth and privilege rarely imagined today; they are the Nawabs, Thakur or Landed gentry equivalent of this region and led rich lives which were an amalgamation of intrigue, battles, love, the arts and business, set amidst riches and the finest luxury India offered at that time.
The Mundals of Bhavali has an extraordinary family history, dating back over four hundred years, one which started with the Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great, His Commander in chief, Maharajah Sawai Man Singh of Jaipur and a promising army officer, Shoba Ram Rai, originally from Uttar Pradesh. In return for having quelled a rebellion of peasants and pirates, Shoba Ram Rai was given over 300,000 acres of land in what was then far off Bengal.
The remainder of the history is a story passed down, in the great tradition of Indian story-telling, by mouth from generation to generation. It involves entrepreneurship, the East India Company and the ensuing colonial era and, importantly, the decision to base themselves around 350 years ago, in the 24 Parganas, a strategic point on the Hooghly River from where they could see their wealth grow. Initially this land was still part of the Sunderbans, a stretch of mangroves, and swamp land, home to countless tigers and numerous other wildlife. The local population were the Baule Community, forest dwellers who lived a subsistence existence, fishing and collecting honey. They worshipped two main Gods Bon Bibi, the Goddess of the Forest and Dakshin Rai, the God of the Tigers, both of whom would protect them.
However, the Mondal Family as they were called by then, were worshippers of Lord Krishna and needed their own temples and so, having settled, built their first, the Sri Radha Kamtajiu which was closely followed by several others around the area. Their homes, soon followed, transforming this amall, rural village into an extraordinary town of temples and palaces.
The Rajbari itself, an extraordinary, architectural master piece, was built around 250 years ago. It saw over 170 years of grand living, parties and eminent guests but unfortunately post-independence, the Zamindars lost much of their wealth and the house started to fall into disrepair. Many others disappeared altogether as the families started to disperse to rebuild their own lives. A few members stayed on, caught up in the memories of their former glory. At one stage, in order to raise money, it was used for film shoots and also a movie hall. But it was not enough. It is only recently that The Rajbari, the only building now remaining from this time, albeit in ruins, has been salvaged and exquisitely restored to reflect the opulence, style and grace of the Zaminders of Bengal.
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